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VALVE&VINYL

DAC vs Preamp vs Integrated Amp

Three names for three consecutive jobs, not three competing products. The only real question is which chassis you want each job to live in — and one published number tells you whether your chosen combination will work.

By Stephen V.Published Last verified
A converter, a preamplifier and an integrated amplifier stacked in a dark wooden rack

These three things are not alternatives. They are consecutive stages in one chain, and the product names describe which stages a given chassis happens to contain. Almost every confused purchase in this category comes from treating them as a choice of three, when the real choice is how many boxes you want the same four jobs spread across.

The four jobs, in the order the signal meets them:

  1. Convert. Turn digital numbers into an analog voltage. This is what a DAC does and it is the only job of the three names that is a single function.
  2. Select. Choose which source is playing. Note carefully: a DAC selects between digital inputs only. A turntable, a tape deck or a tuner cannot be selected by a DAC because they never enter it.
  3. Set the level and hand a signal to the power stage that is strong enough and low-impedance enough to survive the cable.
  4. Amplify to speaker level. Volts and current enough to move a cone.

Which box does which job

JobDACPreampIntegrated amp
Digital to analog conversionAlwaysOnly if it has digital inputsOften — check for optical or coaxial in
Switching analog sourcesNeverAlwaysAlways
Setting the levelOnly if the output is variableAlwaysAlways
Phono stage for a turntableNever on a standalone DACSometimesOften
Driving passive speakersNeverNeverAlways — this is the definition
Driving headphonesOnly on a combo unitOftenUsually, with a socket of varying seriousness

Read down the “integrated amp” column and you have the definition: an integrated amplifier is a preamplifier and a power amplifier in one chassis, frequently with a converter and a phono stage thrown in. That is why it is the default answer for people with speakers, and why the answer changes completely for people with headphones or powered speakers.

The number that decides whether your combination works

There is one specification that people almost never check before buying and then complain about afterwards: input sensitivity. It is the input voltage a device needs to reach full output. A modern DAC produces roughly 2 volts. Most amplifier line inputs need far less than that, and the gap goes somewhere.

Why the volume knob stops working at 9 o'clock

dB = 20 × log₁₀(V_source ÷ V_sensitivity)

Inputs

Result

20 × log₁₀(2.1 ÷ 0.2) = +20.4 dB

A 2.1 V source into an input that reaches full output at 200 mV arrives more than twenty decibels hotter than the amplifier needs. All of that has to be attenuated back out by the volume control, which is why the useful range of the knob collapses into its first quarter turn.

This is a usability problem far more often than a fidelity problem: an analog volume control has its worst channel-balance error at the bottom of its travel, so the symptom is usually one channel louder at low listening levels, not distortion. Note also that both figures are published for different purposes — Denon states 200 mV as the sensitivity of its analog line inputs, and Marantz publishes its 2.8 V subwoofer output at a 200 mV input with the volume at maximum, which is a different measurement of the same idea. The fix is a source with switchable output or an amplifier with input trim, not a different cable.

The four shapes a system can take

Every sensible arrangement of these boxes is one of four. Find yours by what you own, not by what you want to buy.

1. DAC straight into powered speakers or a power amplifier

Two boxes, no preamp, and it is a complete system with nothing missing — provided every source you own is digital and the DAC’s output is variable. This is the shape most desk systems should be. Our DAC versus preamp page covers the two real costs of going direct in more depth than there is room for here: the amplifier’s own noise floor does not fall when you attenuate, and most DACs have exactly one pair of outputs.

2. One box doing convert, select and level — then a power amplifier

This is what an all-in-one DAC/preamp is for, and it is the shape to choose when you have a power amplifier or active speakers and more than one source. The specification to check is output voltage, because a preamp that cannot drive your power amplifier to full output is a volume control with a ceiling. The FiiO K9 Pro ESS publishes 2.5 V rms from RCA and 5 V rms from XLR; the Cambridge DacMagic 200M publishes 2.1 V and 4.2 V and states that both pairs are user-selectable fixed or variable. Our all-in-one DAC, preamp and headphone amp roundup ranks six of them on exactly that.

3. Everything on a desk, headphones first

If the speakers are powered or absent and the headphones are the point, you want a DAC and headphone amp in one chassis and no preamp at all. Our combo page ranks these on published milliwatts into the impedance you actually own, and our compact desktop roundup ranks the same category on how much desk it takes when space is the binding constraint rather than power.

4. An integrated amplifier, with the digital stage inside it

One box, passive speakers, and the box count stops at one if it has the inputs you need. The Marantz PM6007 and Denon PMA-600NE both publish coaxial and optical digital inputs alongside an MM phono stage — 2.2 mV / 47 kΩ and 2.5 mV / 47 kΩ respectively — which means a turntable and a television both connect with no other hardware at all. The Yamaha A-S501 has digital inputs too, and does not publish the DAC part number or any conversion measurement for them.

That last point is the honest argument for an external converter at this price, and it is not “the internal one is bad” — we have no measurements either way. It is that an external DAC publishes its figures and the built-in one does not. Our integrated amplifier roundup has the full power and phono comparison.

And an AV receiver is shape four with more channels

An AV receiver is an integrated amplifier with five to eleven channels, video switching and room correction bolted on. Everything above still applies to it: the Denon AVR-X1800H publishes an analog input sensitivity of 200 mV like any other line input, and an MM phono stage specified at 2.5 mV with a RIAA deviation of ±1 dB from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, a 74 dB signal-to-noise ratio and 0.03% distortion — which is more than most standalone phono stages in its price class publish.

So “should I buy a receiver or an integrated amplifier” is not a question about sound quality, it is a question about channel count and video. The integrated versus receiver comparison is here, and our AV receivers under $1,000 roundup covers the ones worth buying if the answer is a receiver.

What each shape costs you

  • More boxes means a better upgrade path and more interconnects, more power supplies and more gain stages. You can replace the converter without replacing the amplifier, which matters only if you actually would.
  • Fewer boxesmeans one purchase, one remote and one set of compromises. When an integrated amplifier’s DAC becomes obsolete you have replaced nothing and gained an unused socket.
  • Any shape without a preamp stage needs a source with a variable output, and needs you to check that its output voltage suits the amplifier at the other end. That is the failure mode the arithmetic above describes.

The short version

Passive speakers, one box: integrated amplifier. Passive speakers, several analog sources and an existing power amplifier: preamp, or a DAC/preamp if all your sources are digital. Powered speakers or a power amplifier and only digital sources: a DAC with a variable output and nothing else. Headphones on a desk: a DAC and headphone amp combo, no preamp in sight. And if you own a turntable, whatever you buy needs a phono stage somewhere in it, which quietly rules out most of the DAC-only answers.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a DAC, a preamp and an integrated amplifier?
They are consecutive stages, not competing products. A DAC converts digital audio to an analog voltage. A preamplifier selects between analog sources and sets the level going to a power amplifier. An integrated amplifier is a preamplifier and a power amplifier in one chassis, so it is the only one of the three that can drive passive speakers. Many integrated amplifiers also contain a converter and a phono stage, which is how a system with a turntable, a television and a pair of speakers ends up as one box.
Do I need a preamp if I have an integrated amplifier?
No. An integrated amplifier already contains a preamplifier; that is what the word integrated means. Adding another one in front of it puts two volume controls in series, which works but adds a gain stage and makes level-setting awkward. The exception is a specific feature you want that your integrated lacks, such as a better phono stage or balanced inputs.
Can a DAC replace an integrated amplifier?
Only if your speakers are powered or you already own a power amplifier. A DAC produces roughly 2 volts and no current worth speaking of, so it cannot drive a passive speaker under any circumstances. If your speakers have a power cable, a DAC with a variable output can be the entire rest of the system; if they only have speaker terminals, you need an amplifier between them.
Should I use my integrated amplifier's built-in DAC or buy an external one?
Start by checking what your amplifier publishes about it. The Yamaha A-S501 has optical and coaxial inputs but publishes neither a DAC part number nor any conversion measurement, while the Marantz PM6007 and Denon PMA-600NE publish digital inputs too. We have no measurements of any built-in converter, so we cannot tell you it sounds worse. The defensible argument for an external DAC is that it publishes figures you can check and the built-in one does not.
Is an AV receiver an integrated amplifier?
Functionally yes, with more channels and video switching added. The same specifications apply: the Denon AVR-X1800H publishes an analog input sensitivity of 200 mV and an MM phono stage at 2.5 mV with RIAA deviation of plus or minus 1 dB, 74 dB signal-to-noise and 0.03% distortion. Choosing between them is a question of channel count, video switching and room correction rather than a question of sound quality.
Why does my volume control only work in its first quarter turn?
Because your source is much hotter than your amplifier's input needs. A DAC putting out 2.1 V into an input rated for 200 mV of sensitivity arrives about 20 dB too hot, and the volume control has to attenuate all of that back out. The practical symptom is usually a channel-balance error at low levels rather than distortion, because an analog attenuator is least accurate at the bottom of its travel. Fix it with a source that has switchable output level or an amplifier with input trim.

Sources

Every specification on this page was read from one of these documents. If one of them has changed, or we have made an error, tell us — corrections are logged and dated per our editorial policy.